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PAPER MAGAZINE
Cavernous Eldridge Street newcomer Fontana's looks like it might be more at home a few blocks east. But don't let its dingy locale or enormity intimidate you. Two of the owners are behind the nearby drinks den Route 85A, and the lack of pretense carries over here. On a recent night, I attempted to have a conversation with a friend, but every time I looked up from my beer, I noticed his gaze was fixed on the muted James Bond flick illuminating the flat-screen TV. That was the perfect choice to complement the curvy red-leather booths and pulp paintings of hot rods and busty babes on the walls. Happy hour starts here when most New Yorkers are finishing up the last of their paninis: 2 p.m. The attractive happy-hour prices on beer ($3-$4) make it a good time to sample the dozen different ones on tap, from Old Speckled Hen to Hofbrau. Even if you're not craving a game of pool, make sure you wander into the back room for a dose of old rock glam. Despite the proliferation of swank spots on the LES, thankfully the neighborhood can't shed its reputation as a rocker haven. In the basement bar, DJs and bands create a late-night, low-key rock-club vibe. read online |
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NEW YORK MAGAZINE
This surprisingly enormous bar and music venue just south of Delancey Street is owned by the ladies behind Route 85a. If that charming dive is a snappy hot dog, Fontana's is an enormous, delicious triple-decker sandwich with the works, boasting a bar up front, another in the cavernous, balconied back room, and a third in the basement area where bands play. The wall paintings define the campy, comfortable mood: In a shiny palette of primaries, they depict bikini babes, muscle cars, and portraits of '70s rock and movie icons. Tallbacked red patent leather booths are more than big enough to accommodate the large, loud groups that begin to fill up the space at around 10 p.m. Extra-sweet and solicitous bartenders guide patrons through the extensive and ever-changing roster of tap and bottled beers, including hard-to-find favorites like He'Brew. Despite the neighborhood's reputation as a haven for music snobs, the only Arrogant Bastard here is the ale of the same name: The clientele at Fontana's is refreshingly relaxed and attitude-free. read online |
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THRILLIST.COM
[Fontana's] will have something for everyone, with a neighborhood joint up front sporting plush booths, barstools, and charmingly toothless regulars; and a slick two-level back lounge where DJs will spin rock and Britpop. There's also a subterranean grotto the owners say was once a precinct jail, but will now host live bands, acclimatizing budding rockstars to crowds, and to a prison setting -- both of which they'll be seeing a lot more of should they enjoy any real success. read online |
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VILLAGE VOICE
On a relatively bar-less stretch of Eldridge lies new bar Fontana's, an unassuming, surprisingly spacious bar that we hope will surviveŅif only because downtown could use a few less gimmicks and a few more pool tables. Spread out not unlike a split-level home, the front part is given over to Fontana's extensive bar, while the back room houses a pool table and a large screen that satisfies the 20-plus year old kiddies with regular installments of "Aqua Teen Hunger Force." The basement features bands and the occasional special event, like Mustaches for Kids' Stache Bash. read online |
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